Here
are some tips for jewelry care and purchasing.
1. Know your karats*
Look for the karat mark, which will tell you that the piece is real gold
and the percentage of pure gold it contains. Pure gold, or 24K, is rarely
used because it is soft and easily damaged. Instead gold is alloyed with
other metals, such as copper, silver, nickel and zinc, to give it strength
and durability. Different proportions of these alloys also give gold its
rose, green, or white coloration. 18K gold is 75% gold; 14K is 58.5%; and
10K is 41.6%. The higher the karatage, the richer the color will be--and
the more costly. In the U.S. jewelry must be at least 10K to be legally
sold as real gold. (In Canada and Mexico, the minimum legal standard of
karatage is 9K and 8K respectively.)
Imported gold jewelry may be stamped with different numbers. For example,
the European markings for 14 karat gold jewelry is 585; for 18K is 750.
2. Look for the trademark
On karat-marked jewelry sold in the U.S., always look for the
manufacturer's hallmark. By U.S. law it must be there. When there's a
hallmark, it means the manufacturer stands behind the accuracy of the
karat mark. You may also find the country of origin marked.
3. Evaluating price
In addition to karat weight, the price of gold jewelry is determined by
several factors: total weight; design and construction; and ornamental
detailing, such as engraving or Florentine finish. Although nearly all
gold jewelry today is made with the help of special machines, some
handwork is always involved. The more there is, the higher the price. The
good news is that through modern manufacturing technology, large,
lightweight, and exciting pieces can be surprisingly affordable.
4. Check the clasp
When buying a gold necklace or bracelet, make sure you examine the clasp
to see if it is strong enough to support the chain, especially if the
piece does not have a hallmark. Run your hand over the chain and look for
any rough edges. A well-made piece of gold jewelry should look and +feel
like the quality piece it is. And if you take the time to look it over,
you will have a piece that with good care can last a lifetime.
5. Shop where the Goldmark is displayed
When you see the "Goldmark" in a store showcase or window, you
can be sure that what you're buying is at least 14 karats or more.
*Don't be confused with "carats," the weight measure used for
diamonds and other gems.
Buying a piece of fine jewelry is unlike buying
any other product. What other product comprises materials that are often
billions of years old? The natural gemstones and precious metals from which
fine jewelry is created have a uniqueness and complexity that require special
knowledge--and often gemological equipment--not readily accessible to the
average consumer. No two gemstones are alike; design and quality vary greatly
from piece to piece. Most consumers could not evaluate a strand of quality
cultured pearls, distinguish between a blue topaz and a sapphire, or recognize
a one-carat diamond. And even if they do know the difference between carats
and karats, how do they know they are getting what they're paying for?
With the proliferation of jewelry outlets, including catalogs and electronic
shopping, selecting where and what to buy can be a daunting experience. the
Jewelry Information Center, a non-profit trade association headquarters in New
York City, provides the following tips on finding the right jeweler and what
to look for when buying fine jewelry.
1. Buy from a trusted jeweler or one who has been recommended.
Choosing the right jeweler is like choosing a doctor: ask friends or
colleagues to recommend someone they know and trust. Otherwise, find out how
long the jeweler has been in business by checking with the Better Business
Bureau or the Chamber of Commerce. The right jeweler is a trained professional
who can knowledgeably guide his customer through the selection process. And he
will be there later if the piece needs to be cleaned, restrung, or remounted.
Find out what other services the jeweler provides that might be important in
the future. Ask what the return or trade-up policy is. And finally, is the
jeweler affiliated with one of the jewelry trade organizations that require a
code of conduct for its members?
2. Don't be dazzled by discounts.
If a store is offering unbelievable discounts of 50% or more, the sale is
probably just that -- unbelievable. Consumers should play it safe by shopping
around first and comparing actual value. They may find that a regular price at
other stores matches or is less than the "discounted" sales price.
3. Look for the registered trademark and quality mark.
When buying a piece of gold jewelry, the karat mark, often called the quality
mark, tells the percentage of pure gold in the piece. Pure gold, or 24K, is
usually considered too soft for jewelry. It must be alloyed with other metals,
such as copper, zinc or silver, to give it strength and durability. 14K gold,
for example, is 58.3% gold; the rest are alloys. Jewelry less than 10K gold
(or 41.7% gold) cannot be legally sold as gold in the U.S. Ask the jeweler to
show you the quality mark for gold, as well as for platinum and sterling
silver jewelry. If the quality mark appears on the piece, a registered U.S.
trademark is required by federal law. That assures the consumer that the
manufacturer stands behind the authenticity of the piece If the trademark is
not there, don't buy it.
4. Get it in writing.
When buying fine jewelry, ask the jeweler to write a complete description on
your receipt. For gold jewelry, ask for the karatage; for diamonds, the cut,
color, clarity, and carat weight (the weight of the center stone and total
carat weight if there are side stones); for colored stones, ask for a
description of overall color and carat weight and if the stone is of natural
origin or has been treated in any way. That information should be included on
the bill of sale.
No other object known to man gives as much lasting pleasure as a piece of fine
jewelry, made from precious metals and ancient stones found deep beneath the
earth's surface. The shopping experience can be equally enjoyable when
consumers keep in mind the above tips and look for a knowledgeable,
established jeweler to assist them in finding the right piece for their budget
and personal style.
CARE
AND CLEANING OF FINE JEWELRY
Gems and precious metals are
gifts of nature, which need special care. Even though a gem may be millions of
years old, once mined and worn, it is exposed to conditions and chemicals that
can damage it.
The harder the gem, the less
vulnerable it is to potential damage. A diamond, for example, is the hardest
gem known to man, and that's one reason why "it is forever."
Hardness is based on a gem-trade
standard called the Mohs Scale, developed in the early 19th century. The scale
is structured so that material rated at each higher number can scratch
substances with lower numbers. Diamonds are rated the highest, at 10; rubies
and sapphires are Mohs 9; emeralds and topaz, 8; and garnets, tourmalines and
quartz, 7. Anything softer than a 7 can be scratched, including opal,
turquoise, lapis lazuli, coral, pearl.
Gold, silver, and platinum are
only Mohs 2-1/2 to 4, which means that they require special care when wearing,
storing, or cleaning. Here are some Do's and Don'ts:
-
DON'T wear fine jewelry when
doing housework or gardening.
-
DON'T heap your jewelry into
one drawer. Remember a diamond ring can scratch that pearl necklace. Keep
them separate and ideally wrapped in velvet, paper, or silk.
-
DO check for loose stones
frequently by gently tapping the piece with your finger near your ear.
-
DO get pearls restrung every
two years or annually with frequent use.
-
DO clean fine jewelry often to
maintain its sparkle and beauty. Do not use toothpaste as its abrasives
can damage softer gems and metals. All fine jewelry can be safely cleaned
by soaking for 10 minutes in warm soapy water (using a non-detergent
soap). Use a soft brush on harder gems to loosen any dirt around the
prongs. To reduce greasy build-up on diamond jewelry, dip it in plain
alcohol or vodka before soaking.
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